Anyway. Today I am wearing the Yohji dress with four sleeves. When I put it on, I wrap the lower pair around my waist. The garment embraces me.

At night I hang it in the closet next to the coat of wool armor Lang made for me. Both are older than I am. They have seen more than I have.

Anonymous: I apologize if my post didn't make sense. I'm not asking how to dress like you or anyone. I just stumbled upon your blog and it seems like you are really knowledgable when it comes to clothing so i thought i would ask you a few questions. Why should i stop doing something that interests me because it is new and confusing to me? I have only been seeking knowledge about this for a year now. I'm not asking how i can understand your ideas and agree with them, i'm asking how you got to those ideas.

I came up through a community that is now defunct. I never spent time on any sort of fashion literature or critical theory, and still don’t (on account of time.) I benefited, and continue to benefit, from casual discussion with some very extraordinary people who I am proud to count among my dear friends, and the only impediment to anyone else having exactly the same experience is their ability (or couched inability) to just say what they fucking think instead of responding to everything with, “Hm, that’s interesting, but I’m going to have to collect a little more knowledge first.” 

I promise that you, right now, have every resource you need to participate in any level of substantive discussion about … well, any topic, but let’s say garments specifically. You do not need to read any books. You do not need to seek out any "knowledge." You have plenty of your own opinions to share: I promise you. What you do need to do is cut the fucking bullshit, remove the roadblocks you have laid to stall yourself, and stop worrying about how you look in fit pictures.

By the way. I hope none of you read these responses as combative. Or admonishing. I have an infinitely warm regard for you all. (Within reason.)

DIARY FOR HEMS, AUGUST 20TH

- 8” from one (1) pair of 94w Yohji Yamamoto trousers

- 6” from one (1) pair of Rick Owens DRKSHDW detroits, mineral wash

I asked the woman to save the fabric she took off. 

Anonymous: can you explain how to get into fashion like you're explaining it to a 5 year old? i feel completely lost. trying to browse a bunch of different fashion forums and reading up on designers while aqquiring a taste for what i like and making purchases along the way that i think "fit" that. i don't want to be an uninformed consumer buying h&m/zara type purchases but i also don't want to be dressed by the internet spending all of my money on designer clothing. any feedback would be great. thank you.

To be honest, I don’t really understand what it is you’re asking or why you would come to me for this. If you are looking to learn … "how" to dress "for" something, or someone, or some goal that you want to achieve, I am literally the last person on the face of the planet to ask. It sounds like we don’t relate to clothing by any of the same vectors at all. I have no idea what "dressed by the internet" means. I don’t know what a "taste for what you like" looks like. I certainly have no idea what it means to "get into fashion." Which I loathe with every fiber of my being, by the way. I despise fashion and all of its accouterments without exception. 

If reading about clothing on the internet is genuinely causing you as much distress as comes through in this message, my only advice would be … to stop. It seems like it’s something that isn’t doing anything positive for you. You shouldn’t feel as if you have to treat your hobbies like something to endure. Or an exam you’re studying for. Or … skillgrinding. You don’t need to subject yourself to that.

Anonymous: Can you expand a little more on your issues with Demobaza? What other brands like that should be avoided?

Why don’t any of you ever, uh, “expand” on why Demobaza (which, once again, is a brand which started out as a Korean fakes manufacturer — and continues to this day in very nearly the same vein) is such an intoxicating presence. What about it is so appealing to you? I ask you seriously because I do not understand. I have never understood. To me, every garment Demobaza has ever put out makes explicitly obvious just to what a degree the Demobaza design team thinks you, the customer, are a blithering idiot. If I had any other choice in the world, why would I put something on my body that treats me like a wallet attached to a flesh sac incapable of being a discriminating consumer or, in fact, thinking critically about anything at all. This is, very literally, what this entire blog is about.

Here’s an incomplete list of brands whose success relies on you shutting your eyes as tight as you can and screaming, “I can’t hear you!!!” at the top of your lungs:

- All Saints/Spitalfields — without a doubt the most reprehensible, despicable institution in the industry!

- Any sort of OAK NYC, ADYN, BLK DNM, Enfin Leve, Knomadik, Skingraft, Odeur-type operation.

- Outright fakes manufacturers Fabrixquare, Demobaza, etc.

- M.a+, Amadei’s asst. projects, also Augusta/A1923/Adiciannoveventitre (well, more an adjacent issue.) 

- Boris Bidjan Saberi … 

This is not a matter of my opinion. These are brands whose business models from the outset have been ”We Will Find the Customers Who Don’t Know Any Better, and In Fact Refuse to Learn.” This is the foundation of their business practices — for example, what stores they sell to — and it’s also, very literally, the foundation of the design work they do every single season. They profit by stealing the designs of and then undercutting more talented, typically independent and less visible artists — Altieri, Poell, Mariavittoria Sargentini — and trusting in the fact that you are and will continue to be a passive consumer. That you won’t take time to investigate or examine that pair of pants. That you will settle for the first pair you find on Amazon that look sort of like it and also ship to your door.

I am not commanding you from the mountaintop not to buy from these brands. It’s not my money. But please, please do not have any illusions about the fact that you are supporting the usurpage of independent artists. That you are supporting the continued existence of an industry that is functionally impossible to break into without, say, the backing of a luxury holding group.

Don’t you have a friend with a brand they’re trying to get off the ground. Don’t you follow someone doing really incredible independent work. Don’t you struggle to figure out why your favorite small-order designer just suddenly closed up shop two years ago and you can’t find any of their pieces any more. Do you imagine that this is all just one big series of coincidences.

If you really want to wear something from Zara or All Saints, why not consider buying it secondhand. I can’t join you in that. The synthetics give me a rash.

That’s all for now.